Nasolabial folds — the lines that run from each side of the nose to the corners of the mouth — are one of the most common aging concerns. Unlike forehead wrinkles, smile lines are primarily caused by volume loss and fat pad descent rather than muscle contraction alone. This makes them more challenging to treat topically, but a combination of targeted skincare, facial exercises, and lifestyle adjustments can meaningfully reduce their appearance. Dr. Julius Few, a board-certified plastic surgeon, explains: "Smile lines are a volume problem, not just a skin problem. Topicals can improve the skin overlying the fold, but truly deep nasolabial folds also need volume restoration — either through fillers or building the underlying cheek muscles with exercises."

What Causes Smile Lines to Deepen

Volume Loss and Gravity

The primary driver of deepening smile lines is the descent of the malar fat pads (cheek fat). In youth, these fat pads sit high on the cheekbones, creating a smooth transition from cheek to mouth. With age:

  • Fat pads shrink and slide downward
  • The skin envelope remains the same size, creating folds
  • Collagen loss in the fold area accelerates due to the mechanical stress of the crease
  • Bone resorption in the midface reduces structural support

    • Contributing Factors

  • Sun damage — UV radiation accelerates collagen loss along the fold
  • Smoking — the repeated pucker motion deepens lines, and toxins accelerate collagen breakdown
  • Sleep position — side sleeping compresses the nasolabial area nightly
  • Weight fluctuation — repeated weight loss deflates the cheek fat pads
  • Genetics — some people have naturally deeper nasolabial folds

    • Skincare Ingredients for Smile Lines

    Retinoids

    While retinoids cannot restore lost volume, they can improve the skin quality overlying the fold — making the fold appear smoother and less pronounced. Apply retinoid directly to the nasolabial area as part of your full-face routine.

    Peptides

    Matrixyl and copper peptides stimulate collagen in the nasolabial fold area, thickening the skin and improving its ability to resist creasing. Apply peptide serum directly along the smile lines.

    Hyaluronic Acid

    Multi-weight hyaluronic acid provides immediate plumping in the nasolabial area. For maximum effect, apply a hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin, then press a rich moisturizer over the smile line area.

    Vitamin C

    Collagen stimulation and antioxidant protection in the nasolabial fold area help prevent deepening.

    Facial Exercises for Smile Lines

    Exercise 1: Cheek Lifter

    The best exercise for smile lines because it strengthens the muscles that hold the cheek fat pads in position. As described in the JAMA Dermatology study:

  • Open mouth into an O shape
  • Fold upper lip over teeth
  • Smile to lift cheeks
  • Hold for 20 seconds
  • Repeat 10 times

    • Exercise 2: Nasolabial Fold Smoother

  • Open mouth into a long O shape
  • Place index fingers on the nasolabial folds
  • While holding fingers in place, try to smile (the fingers provide resistance)
  • Hold for 10 seconds, release
  • Repeat 10 times

    • Exercise 3: Cheek Puffer

  • Inflate your cheeks fully with air
  • Transfer the air from one cheek to the other
  • Continue alternating for 30 seconds
  • Release. Repeat 3 times.
  • This strengthens the buccinator muscle, which supports the cheek area

    • Additional Techniques

    Sleep on Your Back

    Side sleeping compresses the nasolabial fold on the side you sleep on for 6-8 hours nightly. A silk pillowcase reduces friction but does not eliminate compression. Back sleeping is the most effective preventive measure.

    Facial Massage

    Massage the cheek area in upward and outward strokes to stimulate circulation and temporarily lift the tissue. Use an oil or serum for glide, and incorporate gua sha or jade roller along the nasolabial fold in an upward direction.

    Stay Hydrated

    Dehydration deepens the appearance of all wrinkles. Drinking adequate water and using humectant-rich products (hyaluronic acid, glycerin) over the smile line area keeps the skin plumped.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Can You Completely Get Rid of Smile Lines Without Fillers?

    Topical products and exercises can soften smile lines by 15-25%, which is noticeable but not transformative for deep folds. Hyaluronic acid fillers (Juvederm, Restylane) provide the most dramatic improvement because they directly address the volume loss causing the fold. However, many people achieve satisfactory improvement with consistent topical care and exercises alone, especially if the lines are still relatively shallow.

    Are Smile Lines Hereditary?

    Partially. Facial bone structure, fat pad distribution, and skin elasticity all have genetic components. If your parents developed deep nasolabial folds early, you may be more prone to them. However, sun protection, skincare, and facial exercises can significantly delay and reduce their severity regardless of genetics.

    Do Facial Exercises Really Help with Smile Lines?

    The JAMA Dermatology study demonstrated that facial exercises improved cheek fullness and overall facial appearance after 20 weeks. Specifically targeting the cheek-lifting muscles can help resist the downward drift that deepens smile lines. Results require consistent daily practice over 2-5 months.